The Idiot and the Hermitage

Yesterday saw me actually carry out my plans essentially as, well, planned.

The Idiot: As advertised, the meal did come with a complimentary shot of vodka. The space is cozy and, as near as I could tell, complicated--a maze of small, low-ceilinged rooms filled with dark wood, low couches, and odd knick-knacks, like the half-melted stereo that was near my seat. The food was acceptable, if not spectacular, but the portion was ample. A small card at the table advertised their New Year's celebration; if I'm not doing anything else, I may wind up here.

The Hermitage: Simply spectacular. Words do not do it justice, so I won't make the attempt. For me, the highlight was the building itself, rather than the art it contained--the rooms where it still looked somewhat like what it might have in the days of the Tsars. It really is like something from a fairy tale.

On the other hand, this being Russia, nothing can possibly be made easy. Getting in means queuing up in the cold while they admit people in blocks. Once you're in, you have to deal with the cashiers. Fighting with them seems to be a popular hobby for Russians, and the line tends to be rather poorly organized--after I had the misfortune to step to a second window where a lady was fighting the cashier at some length, I wound up having to wait through several (less contentious) patrons who'd somehow managed to queue up on the other side of her. Ticket in hand, I headed to the coat check room to find that every hook was already taken. Since you're not allowed to wear your coat into the galleries (for fear you might slip a painting into it and escape, I suppose), there was no choice but to pick a bay and hope someone eventually came to claim their coat. Once finally free of my coat, I was able to head in.

Was it worth the hassle? Absolutely. But I'm not sure I'll make it my go-to entertainment of choice, even if it is free.

I left around four, and snapped a few pictures on the way back. Sometime I'll have to head to the other side of the Bol'shaya Neva and take a few of the English Embankment in the evening; they light it up beautifully.

Sculpture and Light